kernel: generalize the inotify watcher into a Host::watch_file service

The hot-reload watcher was substrate-internal; expose it as a typed RAII primitive
any extension can use (config hot-reload is the first consumer), per "the kernel
owns the event/service bus; extensions never hold raw event-loop glue".

- New public watch.hpp: `class FileWatch` (move-only RAII; ~/reset() stop the
  watch) + `Host::watch_file(path, on_change) -> FileWatch`. on_change fires on the
  event-loop thread, COALESCED (one save = one call), EDITOR-SAFE (dir-watch the
  basename across temp+rename), fires on CREATE of a not-yet-existing file, and is
  ERROR-ISOLATED to the calling extension (carries its id; a throw disables only
  that extension). UNGATED — works without UNBOX_DEV.
- New src/file_watcher.{hpp,cpp}: ONE session-wide inotify instance on the
  wl_event_loop multiplexing all watched paths. The substrate's UI-asset hot-reload
  was refactored onto it (no second inotify); only the substrate's *decision* to
  watch UI assets stays UNBOX_DEV-gated. Created lazily on first watch; torn down
  leak-clean before the loop dies.

host.hpp/kernel.md documented. kernel 58 cases/254 assertions green on build +
build-asan (incl. the inotify path), no new suppressions. Edits confined to
packages/kernel/.

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